Since this week is Beauty Cabinet Purge and Restock Week, I think it’s important we discuss the ingredients you should avoid in beauty products. We all know the facts – Beauty products can be full of chemicals, even ones that say they’re “natural” or “healthy.” But because those words are used so much, they’ve lost their meaning. For me, it ALWAYS comes down to the ingredients.
This list isn’t a Dirty Dozen list (which I think are far to generic and result in fear mongering). This is a list from my book, Gorgeous For Good. After years of research and interviews, I built this list as a guideline for avoiding products.
Ingredients you are probably best off avoiding:
- BHA*/BHT (Butylated Hydroxyanisole/Butylated Hydroxytoluene): These two chemicals are synthetic antioxidants that are used to stabilize and help preserve all kinds of food and cosmetic materials. There is a lot of controversy about whether or not BHA is a possible carcinogen, so I choose to avoid both of them. They can also cause allergic reactions.
- Bismuth Oxychloride: This is a drying, skin irritant that is often used in mineral powder makeup. I often wondered why my skin felt itchy and dry when I tried some well-known mineral powder makeups. I now understand that it was probably because of the bismuth, so now I avoid it.
- Camphor: Used in some perfumes and nail polishes, camphor can be toxic and cause nausea and dizziness.
- Coal Tar Dyes: Coal tar dyes are synthetic and derived from petroleum. Many of them can be contaminated with heavy metals. For more information on heavy metals, check out the heavy metals note below. Where possible, I try to avoid: D & C Red 2, 3, 4, 8, 10, 17, 19, and 33; Green 3 and 5; Orange 17; FD & C Blue 1, 2, and 4; Red 4 and 40; and Yellow 5 and 6.
- DEA (Diethanolamine), Cocamide DEA, lauramide DEA, ETA (Ethanolamine), MEA (Monoethanolamine), and TEA (Triethanolamine): These ingredients are added to creams and foamy products to make sure they don’t separate. They also adjust the pH in a product. The problem is that these ingredients can combine with nitrites in the formulation, which in turn create carcinogenic nitrosamines. Also, Cocomide DEA itself is a possible human carcinogen.
- Formaldehyde-releasing Chemicals including DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, methenamine, and quarternium-15: These are preservatives that can interact with other chemicals to release formaldehyde, a known carcinogen and neurotoxin. Although the amounts released are considered by many to be negligible, I play it safe because there are so many great alternatives.
- Fragrance/Parfum that includes DBP, DMP, and DEP: Unless it’s clearly stated that the formulation is fragranced with pure essential oils, it’s likely that the fragrance cocktail, which is often made of hundreds of chemicals, will contain a class of hormone disrupting chemicals called phthalates. If you adore the fragrance of a particular product, just pop the company an email asking if their products are phthalate-free. If they know their stuff, they should be able to tell you. You can also look out for DBP, DMP, and DEP in ingredient lists because all these are phthalates. Obviously a mildly scented foundation or bronzer isn’t going to kill you, but it’s better to look for makeup that is fragranced with pure essential oils instead.
- Heavy Metals (Lead acetate, chromium, thimerosal, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, and sodium hexametaphosphate): Heavy metals are generally found in makeup such as lipsticks and eye shadows, and they are a worry because they can be neurotoxins and hormone disruptors. They will be listed on an ingredient label as: Lead acetate, chromium, thimerosal, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, and sodium hexametaphosphate. I don’t fancy the idea of these on my skin, however stunning the products might be.
- Hydroquinone: Found in skin lighteners and facial moisturizers, hydroquinone can cause irritation and has been restricted in Europe and Japan because it is a possible carcinogen.
- Isoproypl Alcohol: This ingredient can be very drying for your skin, which means that it ages your skin more quickly and it can lead to irritation
- Nanoparticles: Due to the unique engineering that is used to create these uber-tiny particles, they may pose a health risk when brought into your body, either through inhalation or application to the skin. Little is known about the long-term health effects of nanoparticles, as it’s a relatively new science, so it’s best to avoid them where possible. If in doubt, ask if the company if their products contain them.
- Parabens (products that begin with methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-, isobutyl): You’ve probably heard of parabens because they are now the most widely recognized endocrine disruptor. Some people also warn against these as carcinogenic; however, there is no conclusive scientific evidence to date that provides a causal link between parabens and any kind of cancer. What has been shown is that they most likely have weak estrogenic effects on humans.
- Propylene and Butylene Glycols (also listed as “Mineral Oil”): These are forms of mineral oil that are used in food, cleaning products, industrial products, and some skin-care products. These mineral oil derivatives, which are made from petroleum, are effective at preventing moisture loss, and they make the product feel smooth—think of Vaseline, which is pure petroleum jelly. Aside from possible contamination with carcinogenic by-products, mineral oils can be comedogenic, meaning that they can clog up your pores. There are so many beautiful cold-pressed plant oils that do a better and healthier job that it makes no sense to buy products containing these cheap ingredients.
- PVP/VA Copolymer (in hair spray): By repeatedly using hair spray, especially on a daily basis (hair stylists watch out!) you could be putting yourself at risk of developing lung disease. I always try to avoid them.
- Siloxanes (Cyclomethicone) and ingredients ending in “siloxane” (for example: cyclotetrasiloxane): These synthetic chemicals are used in moisturizers and hair products to soften, smooth, and moisten. They may be endocrine disruptors.
- SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate): These are foaming ingredients, which may cause dryness/irritation, and may be endocrine disruptors. The biggest thing to note with these is that they can easily be contaminated with 1,4 dioxin, which is a known carcinogen.
- Stearalkonium Chloride (in hair conditioner): This is a chemical that was developed by the fabric industry to use as a fabric softener, but it is now used in conditioners to impart a “soft” feel to the hair. I prefer to use botanicals and proteins that actually nourish my hair instead of a chemical that sits on top of it, masking the dryness.
- Talc: There’s a lot of scaremongering about the dangers of talc. These fears largely came about from the findings of tiny asbestos fibers in mined talc. However, today’s laws require that any toxic metals be completely removed all cosmetic talc. There is also a connection between talc and cancer, specifically lung and ovarian cancer, but it is extremely Although the cancer connection has not been scientifically substantiated, you may wish to go talc-free because there are now a bunch of companies who offer wonderful talc-free formulations. You also may want to ditch the talc because makeup that contains it tends to block pores and just sit on top of your skin, which simply looks bad.
- Toluene: A VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) also used in aviation fuel and paint thinners that is highly toxic. It is used in nail polish unless otherwise stated.
- Triclosan: This little guy is found in deodorants, cleansers, and most anti-bacterial products such as hand and dish soap. It could be an endocrine disruptor, and in some cases is irritating to the skin. The biggest worry for me is that the ubiquity of this ingredient in products across the board will lead to the ever-growing presence of super bugs (strains of bacteria that are resistant to antibiotics).
